Hari Raya

This week is the prelude to Hari Raya and as Ramadan comes to a close, everyone keenly awaits the announcement of the day when Hari Raya should fall, as the Muslim calender is based on a lunar cycle. The anticipation is often greater than the waiting; in KK (Kota Kinabalu) traffic will be a little heavier than usual as the festive mood sets in and householders throng the bazaars, shops, malls and supermarkets for the goodies they have saved up for to celebrate the day as an occaision to remember.

Officially, Hari Raya is celebrated over two (2) days, the first day begins with communal prayers and fellowship at mosques and suraus throughout Malaysia and in fact the world. The first day is often devoted to family reunions and gatherings. It is usually on the second day that we have what is colloquially known as an "Open House" where friends, friends of friends, and even acquaintances. Really in Sabah, there are no hard and fast rules when one may visit our Muslim friends and what's just been said is a rule of thumb. What is peculiarly unique to Sabah, is that non-Muslims more often than not, have Muslim relations; family gatherings at times like these reflect the cross cultural and religious diversity of the people - "only in Sabah does this happen" is what's been often said and observed.

Unofficially and traditionally Hari Raya visitations stretch beyond the official two days holiday and the customary visits takes place over the "month of Raya"

If you happen to be a visitor to Malaysia and especially if you are in Sabah during Hari Raya, it is possible to get an invitation to a home gathering and the hospitality accorded to you will leave an indelible impression. How do you get an invitation? Strike a conversation with the hotel staff, that'll be a good start and if they happen to be celebrating Hari Raya, chances are that in the course of conversation, you may get an invitation to visit them at their home - transportation will not a problem, it will all be arranged, you can bet on it, hospitality Sabah style is something to be experienced. Too often visitors only view Sabah from without and do not get a chance to experience it from within, Hari Raya maybe just be that opportune moment!

Satay

The first introduction that you may have had to Satay may have been at 39,000 feet on a Malaysian Airlines Flight. For its Satay, Malaysian Airlines was endowed with the award of the Best Signature Dish Airlines by Skytrax for the year 2003/2004.

Satay is authentically a Malay dish, usually made of sliced beef, chicken or minced lamb, skewered on lidi (the dried mid-rib of the coconut leaf) and grilled over a slow burning charcoal fire. The meat is first marinated with cumin, coriander, black pepper and seasoning (a concoction of spices) jealously and secretly guarded as a family or commercial secret. After marinating, the longer this is, the better tasting it will become, it is then grilled over a slow burning charcoal fire.

Traditionally, the cook who grills the satay has a fan in his hand where he oxygenizes (fans) the flames occasionally to control the heat as he or she grills the meat. The secret lies in the right application of heat to get the meat well cooked but yet tender and succulent, an art acquired through experience.

Satay is eaten by dipping the skewer of grilled meat in a specially prepared peanut sauce, the recipe of which is again a closely guarded secret passed from one generation to another. Satay is usually eaten with ketupat (steamed compressed rice cakes) or bread, and sometimes accompanied by sliced cucumbers and raw onions.

It is easy to find Satay stalls in Malaysia, you find them in the food courts and night food stalls; they can be a meal in itself or as an appetizer to a main meal. In Kota Kinabalu satay stalls are also to be found in the kedai kopi (local cafes) along Jalan Pantai (Beach Street) and also in Kampong Ayer. You will not miss one!

For the records: Malaysian Airlines produce 27,000 sticks of Satay & 350 liters of Peanut Sauce daily!

Back Packer Diner

Hot Cross Buns in Kota Kinabalu

Hot Cross Buns in Kota Kinabalu!? Not exactly but near enough and tasty too. The Western palate can be a little fastidious when it comes to local fare, unless one's innards can go native at an instance but that's more likely the exception than the rule!

If you've no qualms about sitting in a kedai kopi (local cafe) knowing that an orang puteh (white person) is likely to stand out in the crowd , then you ought to give this kedai kopi a runover.
Got to tell you though, that this joint has no sign board but it's not too hard to locate. It's diagonally in front of Jesselton Hotel on Gaya Street - if you're standing with your back to the front entrance of the hotel, it is to your left across the street, by the way there is a tattoo parlour on the first floor above. Don't confuse this joint with the one next door which has an overhead sign board.

You can't really miss the array of 'Baked Buns' & 'Steamed Buns' displayed - the price lists are prominently posted. Indulge yourself! Yes the baked buns does agree with the Western Palate!

Back Packer Diner

The Best Fish & Chips in Town

If you are in Kota Kinabalu, Pete's Corner is the place, numero uno for fish & chips sans vinegar drenched, salt sprinkled, newspaper wrapped. Lonely Planet must have missed out on Pete's Corner, not to Pete's loss though but more to those of us who are fish & chips afficionados.

What you will get at Pete's is freshly filleted fish coated with his 'secret recipe' (that's what Pete calls it) batter and bread crumbs a far cry from the run of the mill assembly run stuff that passes off for the Real McCoy! Mind you Pete does the early morning marketing himself. Fish from the warmer waters (read that as tropical) taste somehow a little better than those in colder waters - check that out!

How do you get to Pete's Corner? Pete's is at Asia City and it's at a corner, ask around, you wouldn't miss the place. Something more about Pete the man, a pleasant conversationalist be it in English, Malay or Mandarin, and if he's not in - he's around the corner. At Pete'a it's more than what's on the menu, you can talk to the man himself.

Take note though, business at Pete's is only from 7am till 4pm, Mondays to Saturdays.

Back Pack Diner

What's New at Kota Kinabalu in September

It's Ramadan, the Muslim fasting month which happens to fall between end of August - middle of September of the Gregorian calendar this year (2009), and it is the prelude to Hari Raya Aidilfitri (a religious event which in Sabah as well as in the rest of Malaysia; it is celebrated as a public holiday).

During Ramadan, a feature that is prominent in Kota Kinabalu are the food stalls that come to life only during Ramadan selling 'speciality street food' for the fasting month. Don't take the term 'street food' as a knockdown, they are cuisines in their own right. The hustle and bustle as the locals crowd view the fares on display is a sight to behold.

In Kota Kinabalu, the two best spots to visit and experience the carnival atmosphere are the Asia City and Gaya Street stalls - the better spot being the Asia City stalls and the best time to drop by is between 3pm and 5pm when it's 'peak season'. Browse around the stalls, so long as you have a friendly smile on your face, you are quite likely to find a kindly soul who would answer your curiosity.

As to the kinds of foods available, it is best to see them for yourself and sense the aromas 'a picture is better than a thousand words'. Cuisine-wise, there is yet much to be discovered about Malaysian food which has become a blend of history and various cultures.

However, if you are game for a dare - why not get in touch with us; we could arrange a culinary tour and will recommend the 'delights' that may be more suited to a Westernised Palate - you need not fear the dreaded "Montezuma's Revenge".

A Connection Between the Falklands & Borneo

Major-General Sir Jeremy Moore KCB, OBE, MC and Bar, Royal Marines, Falklands campaign Land Force Commander 1982, Major-General Commando Forces RM, 1979-82, was born on July 5, 1928. He died on September 15, 2007, aged 79.

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/comment/obituaries/article2469102.ece

He was then Captain Jeremy Moore in 1962 at Limbang, Sarawak.

http://www.britains-smallwars.com/Borneo/Limbang.html

At the time of the Falklands conflict in 1982, I was squatting in a Shepherd Bush flat not too far away from the Metropolitan Line Station and the Shepherd Bush library across the street.

Tramping around Kota Kinabalu, Sabah (what used to be known as British North Borneo), I made it a point to get into Brunei to cross over to Limbang, the only reason being that I was a history buff who wanted to know more of past military conflicts, hence the discovery of the connection between the Falklands & Borneo.

As a chance would have it, at http://www.b-borneo.com/, I ran into this Anglophile, who over a couple of beers and satays (local variety of kebab) told me that the best way to take in as much of the country was to take a bus to Lawas, Sarawak from Kota Kinabalu, then cross over to Limbang where Captain Jeremy Moore and his gallant men stormed the police station way back in 1962.

In his impeccable English, this local gentleman reminisced as much as he could of what life was like in KK (Jesselton as it was known) then. I took the long road to Limbang - must admit that it was not Greyhound comfort but then I wanted to know what was it like for the men there then.

http://www.onceamerinealwaysamarine.co.uk/dhala2.htm

by 'fizzinator'

Ramblings on The Road to Nambayan

The road to where?! Nambayan?!
Ha Ha! You may wonder where is this place, it is just after Tambunan town. The road to Tambunan is pretty deserted these days, as the traffic to Keningau from Kota Kinabalu goes through the Papar Kimanis road.

Here I was at 1pm in the afternoon of Friday, 28th August, chugging along the Donggongon to Moyog road, with hardly a vehicle in sight on a warm humid afternoon. I passed 3 trailers up and saw 2 down. How different is it these days, from the hey days of the timber boom.

Has things changed or maybe they are now using the Keningau - Kimanis road. Maybe the trailers are still there but I am not seeing them. One thing though that I noticed about the old road was the perennial road works. On the same spots, with improvements though. At times, I did imagine the span bridges crossing the valleys but that was just a mirage.

What however seemed timeless, was the breath-taking views of the Crocker Range, the picturesque villages albeit with modern amenities and children. Guess the cooler climate gives an impetus to procreation.